Get Fancy
Looking for a nice the finishing touch to your custom build? Can't get enough of that sweet, sweet Ti? You're in the right place.
Our custom four-piece brake lever hardware kits are precision machined from strong, corrosion-resistant 6/4 titanium and, well, look awesome. Â
Will they save weight? Maybe! But that's not really the point, is it?
Compatibility:
Brake lever (BL) part numbers are located under the brake lever body. This kit has been tested and approved ONLY for the following Shimano lever models:
- XTR BL-M9100 / BL-M9120
-
XT BL-M8000 / BL-M8100
-
SLX BL-M7000 / BL-M7100
-
Deore MT500 / MT501
-
Deore BL-M6000 / BL-M6100
-
Non-Series BL-M4100
-
Saint BL-M820
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XTR BL-M985 / BL-M987 / BL-M988 / BL-M9000 / BL-M9020
Important!
The smaller bolts cover the very important hydraulic reservoir. DO NOT INSTALL unless you have the skills and tools needed to bleed the brakes if fluid is lost. Â
"Oil slick" anodizing is an electrochemical process and no two parts will look the same. Variety is the spice of life.
Installation:
Required tools & supplies:
- Bicycle workstand
- Mild cleaner
- Clean rag
- 4mm hex wrench
- 2.5mm hex wrench
- Torque wrench with
- 2.5mm hex bit
- 4mm hex bit
- Nickel anti-seize compound (preferred), copper anti-seize, or dielectric grease
- Optional:
- Digital level or level app
Repeat the following for each lever:
- With the bike on the ground, use a level (or smartphone level app) to note the angle of your brake levers relative to the grips.
- Mount your bike in the workstand.
- Clean your brake levers with a mild solvent and soft cloth, paying special attention to the area around the reservoir covers. You don't want to introduce dirt, grime, or anything else into your brake system.
- Insert a 2-2.5mm hex key or small pick into the "Push to Open"Â hole and remove the lever from the bar.
- Using a 4mm hex key, remove the stock clamping bolt from your brakes
- If you haven't lost it already, a little O-ring will likely come off when the bolts are unthreaded. Â
- Keep track of your O-rings! Some brake models use different sizes and you don't want a dirty clamping bolt O-ring in your reservoir.
- Insert a 2-2.5mm hex key or small pick into the "Push to Open" hole and remove the lever from the bar.
- Insert one of the longer bolts in place of the stock clamping bolt.
- Roll the O-ring on to the threaded end of bolt to keep it in place.
- Apply a dab of anti-seize to the end of one of the bolt.
- Reinstall the brake lever on the bar
- You may need to use the 2.5mm hex in the "Push to Open" hole to open the clamp wide enough
- Take care to align the bolt with the lever threads.  The alignment can be a little fiddly so take your time.
- Rotate the lever so that it is roughly level to the ground and snug clamp bolt to hold lever in place (<4Nm).
- Use a 2.5mm hex wrench to remove the stock bleed screw from the reservoir.
- Take care not to jostle the bike or squeeze the brake lever with the bleed screw removed.
- In freshly-bled brakes, brake fluid should be visible in the bleed port. You want it to stay there. If you don't see fluid, it could be time for a brake bleed.
- Carefully remove the O-ring from the bleed screw head.Â
- Sometimes the O-ring will be left in the bleed port, if so, pluck it out.
- Carefully roll the O-ring on to the replacement bleed screw such that it sits around the smooth section immediately under the screw head.
- Insert the replacement bleed screw into the bleed port and tighten to 0.4 Nm.
- Once again taking care not to jostle the bike or squeeze the brake lever until bleed port is covered and sealed.
- Do not add grease or anti-seize to the bleed screw- we don't want any of either in your brake fluid.
- That's really not tight at all. The hex is tiny and the reservoir is not a pressurized part of the braking system. Go easy.
- Inspect your lever for spilled fluid around the bleed port. Because you were really careful and gentle there isn't any, right?
- If there is, please proceed to bleed your brakes or take them to a shop to have them bled.
- Loosen the clamp bolt and rotate the lever to the angle noted earlier. Â
- Tighten the clamp bolt to 6Nm.
- You want the levers to stay put in normal use but rotate in the event of a crash.
- Repeat steps 1-18 for the other brake lever.
- Give your levers a few good firm squeezes- if they feel mushy or different from how they usually do, give 'em a bleed.
- Go for a ride.